Question - How do you fix a condensate pump?

Answered by: Sarah Scott  |  Category: General  |  Last Updated: 28-06-2022  |  Views: 1467  |  Total Questions: 12

Here's how you can troubleshoot your condensate pump in five simple steps. Turn the Power off to Your AC and Condensate Pump. Check the Float. Clean the Pump. If It's Still Not Working, Remove the Pump. Remove the Old Pump and Install the New One. Residential AC Repair In Orlando. If that condenser pump fails, the water overflows the pump and spills onto the floor. That doesn't necessarily mean the pump is bad; the problem could be just algae buildup in the pump's check valve. So start your diagnosis by unplugging the condenser pump. Disconnect the drain line and empty the water into a bucket. Due to the lack of a convenient drain, it drains into a small-sized Flotec condensate pump which pumps up and across the ceiling to a drain on the other side of the room. When the humidifier is running the pump runs every 3. 5 minutes. Condensate Pump – The cost to replace a condensate pump is between $100 and $165 with the part usually costing about $45. Cleaning a Condensate Pump in 8 Steps Inspect the condensate pump for water. Turn the power off at the source. Disconnect the PVC tubing connected to the reservoir. Remove the condensate pump and place it in a suitable work area. Rinse the reservoir. Remove any clogs. Reconnect the drain lines.

It is very important before cleaning your condensate pump to unplug it or turn off the power at the main breaker box. To clean the pump properly, you must first disconnect the PVC (polyvinyl chloride) tubing connected to its reservoir. One line runs to the HVAC unit, and the other is connected to a drain line.

If you have an air conditioning system with an indoor unit, or you use a high efficiency furnace, then you definitely need to have a condensate pump to remove the vapor and other condensate that will accumulate when the system runs.

Condensate pumps are often very loud due to high fluid velocity and hydraulic action. Depending on the size, location and noise level of the pump, steps taken to reduce noise may include altering the insulation between building floors, reducing flow velocity or providing rubber buffers.

Every central air conditioner has a condensate drain line that runs from the indoor air handler to the outside of the home. Look for a white PVC pipe that's located near your outdoor unit.

A new auxiliary condensate overflow safety switch can help prevent flooding caused by clogged air conditioning condensate drains, the company says. The ACS-4 overflow safety switch detects downstream clogs and shuts off the air conditioning unit before flooding occurs.

The "Lift" or "Head" of the pump refers to the height the pump is required to "lift" the water up to the drain. The distance the water needs to travel horizontally once the lift is achieved is referred to as the "Run". The "run" does not effect the lift or flow rate of the pump unless it exceeds 50 feet.

It is possible to terminate a condensate pipe into a rain water down pipe that terminates into the foul waste system. As with all externally-run condensate pipes, it is recommended to keep the external run to minimum and the pipe diameter to 32mm when exiting the property.

By measuring vertically from the pump outlet to the point at which gravity takes over the flow of water in the drain line will give an accurate measurement of the pump's head measurement. The GPM, gallons of condensate water the pump can remove in a minute, is typically 2-3 times the system condensing rate.

Use a flashlight to inspect the drain pan, located inside the air handler. Check the opening to the condensate drain line for any obvious backups or debris. Clean out the drain pan as best you can. If there is condensate in the overflow pan, you probably have drain line clog.

Once you've located the outlet port where the water exits your unit, attach PVC pipe to route the water from there down into the condensate pump (which will need to be lower than the outlet port). Then attach plastic tubing—one end to the exit port of the condensate pump, the other to the drain.

If the build-up of condensation exceeds the line's ability to remove the water, you're probably going to get some overflow. This often happens when low refrigerant levels create ice on the evaporator coils. As the ice melts, it creates more water than the drain system can handle.

Put a funnel in the "T" and pour a quart or two of bleach into the drain. Go slowly as to allow the bleach to kill the mold and mildew. This should be done once a year at least. If you have a condensate pump, the bleach will fill up the water reservoir and turn on the pump cleaning out the vinyl exit tubing.