Question - What do I put under cedar shingles?

Answered by: Douglas James  |  Category: General  |  Last Updated: 16-06-2022  |  Views: 1479  |  Total Questions: 11

Felt underlayment/tar paper: Felt materials are a traditional underlayment option for cedar shingles made from a base of natural materials like wood cellulose or synthetics like fiberglass and coated with a protective asphalt coating to repel moisture and debris. The order is: sheathing, pink paper, black paper, pink, black, shingles. There is no lath; the shingles are right against the black paper. There is no evidence of water damage to the sheathing, but there are countless layers of paint on the shingles too (which may have helped prevent water penetration). It is necessary to have vents on a cedar roof. Older cedar roofs in the Chicago area are prone to extreme heat build-up in the attic beneath them due to their extreme sizes and pitches. Nearly every roof we've replaced has clearly needed more ventilation added to give it a better chance at lasting 50 years. No, the natural preservatives of cedar protect our shingles from ravages of fungi, humidity, and insects. However, they can be treated with preservatives or stains to achieve a different visual effect. from each edge of the cedar shingle and 4 cm (1 1/2 in. ) above the exposure. To avoid buckling, allow 3 to 6 mm (1/8 to 1/4 in. ) space between each shingle for expansion (depending on degree of humidity).

Nails / Staples: Use rust-resistant shingle nails or staples 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" (3. 2 to 3. 8 cm) long, galvanized, in aluminum or stainless steel. Use 2 nails per shingle at about 3/4" (1. 9 cm) from each edge, and 1" (2. 5 cm) above the butt line of the overlapping shingle.

Start at the bottom of the wall at one end. Align the thick, lower edge of a cedar shake at the lower edge of the siding or shear wall. Align one of the vertical edges at the edge of the trim or corner of the wall. Attach the shake with a pair of 5d galvanized box nails and a shingle hatchet or hammer.

Housewrap, a common type of weather-resistive barrier (WRB), is installed between the cladding layer and the sheathing, while roofing underlayments go directly under shingles or other roofing material, forming a second line of defense against the elements.

How to Replace a Cedar Shake or Shingle Step 1: Remove the Old Shingle. If you're replacing a cracked, lifted, or curled shingle, you'll have to remove the old shingle first. Step 2: Size the New Shingle. Make sure the new shingle is the correct size by planing the edges. Step 3: Carefully Nail in the New Shingle.

Cedar shakes are attractive, durable and resistant to insect activity. They typically last longer than shingles and many other types of roofing. They can be expected to last for between 20 and 30 years. Cedar shakes also have natural insulating properties.

Treating Cedar With a Bleaching Oil If you want the gray, weathered appearance, but also want protection, you will need to take special unnatural efforts to make it look natural. Bleaching oil is a two-step process. First, the oil tones the wood with a light gray pigment to fix the color.

Sweep or brush off the cedar area completely with your broom, removing any large debris and any dirt that can be brushed off easily. Mix the exterior wood wash, according to package directions, with water in the large bucket. Clean off the wood wash mixture using a power washer or garden hose. Dry the cedar.

In regards to staining and sealing a cedar/redwood roof, staining is fine for curb appeal but adds no real value to preserving the roof itself. Sealing of cedar/redwood roofs should never be done as this will keep the shakes from getting the air they need to stay dry.

Cedar wood shingles are prone to mold, mildew, and insects. It is important to note that the wood on a cedar roof is not intended to be waterproof, and is therefore quite susceptible to wind-driven rain. Any natural product exposed to water is vulnerable to mold, mildew and erosion. Good news!

Cedar shake siding will grow algae and mold if it's not cleaned once in a while. Algae and mold will cause deterioration and discoloration to your cedar siding. Much like a wooden deck, you can use detergents and a pressure washer to blast the grime away and reveal the beautiful cedar color within.

Eastern white cedar shingles are classified by grades A, B, C and D. Eastern white cedar “A” grades have no imperfections, were as the “B” grade has imperfections above the bottom 6” but are not on the exposed face.